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How to cycle to Iceland, section one: pedalling via Denmark | Denmark vacations


A week ahead of departure the whole thing is in a position: the polished bicycle encumbered with 4 moderately packed panniers, the ferry and teach trips all booked, the lodging and campsites reserved. Cycling to Iceland is a fancy industry: ferry to Amsterdam from Newcastle, trains to Aarhus, cycle up via Jutland to the port of Hirtshals, as regards to the northern tip of Denmark, ferries onward to the Faroe Islands, which I will be able to discover via bicycle ahead of embarking for extra biking across the east of Iceland. Three weeks in general and no flights concerned. One small sacrifice for the local weather emergency, but additionally a possibility to alert everybody to the glorious adventures that may be had with out flying.

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But 4 days ahead of departure, I in finding myself in health facility gazing an excessively in poor health one that can’t be left. Weeks of making plans and preparation are in jeopardy. Departure day passes, however then the miracle of intravenous antibiotics occurs and I realise I will nonetheless go back and forth, catching up with my very own itinerary if I make a couple of adjustments.

I should abandon the theory of taking my very own motorbike, the use of rented machines as a substitute; I should additionally depart in an instant, and – gulp – take one brief flight. I hurriedly stuff a couple of issues inside of two of the panniers and fly hand-luggage-only to Denmark. From the airport, I take trains and buses to the Jutland the town of Thisted, the place I hire a Dutch-style the town motorbike with pedal brake. I load the panniers and my handlebar bag, then spark off into the rolling empty geographical region in opposition to the coast, and a few darkish clouds.

It feels just right to be beneath manner. Planning a no-fly world shuttle via motorbike is much more tricky than it must be. Ferry routes were slashed in recent times – the shuttle could be a long way more practical if any ferry between the United Kingdom and Scandinavia nonetheless existed. Not solely that however taking motorcycles on world trains may also be frustratingly tough (regional products and services are a long way more straightforward). Our shipping techniques are hopeless in the case of doing proper via the planet.

Løkken, Denmark

As I after all means the Jutland coast, I run headlong right into a vicious north-westerly gale that brings icy salvoes of rain directly off the North Sea. Any optimism is readily washed out of me. I succeed in Hanstholm campsite (two-bed cabin from £63 an evening) in twilight, soaked, shivering and hating bicycles. All the tenting apparatus is again at house. I take a small chalet. I unpack. I pull out a down jacket and gloves. How did they get in there? Stupid pieces to pack in a heatwave, however I pull them on gratefully. I’ve introduced the incorrect bag. But what’s this? A duplicate of War and Peace, the e book I have been studying and meant to go away in the back of. I open at a random web page and get started studying.

Tolstoy’s masterpiece is some of the poignant learn I may have selected: the tale of ways everybody participates in a unnecessary stampede to predictable spoil. Even my tiny no-fly contribution has already misfired.

When I wake subsequent morning, issues don’t appear so bleak. The solar is shining in a blue sky as I cycle throughout grass in opposition to a roaring sea. Denmark’s West Coast cycle trail is 450 miles of dunes, woods and facet roads, however that morning all I need is seashore.

Without consulting the map – the only I’ve left in the United Kingdom – I experience directly to the sand and switch north. By maintaining to the brink of the waves I will make respectable growth, until I attempt to flip, which makes me fall off. A cloud of curlews rises to my proper, the wind retaining the birds so shut I believe I may just succeed in out and stroke their lengthy curved expenses. The sea thunders in my ears and I forestall fascinated with anything else. I really like biking. I really like Denmark.

West Coast Cycle Path, Denmark
One of the lofty stretches alongside the West Coast Cycle Path

When the tide in the end pushes me into the softer sand, I’m pressured inland directly to the grassy dunes, the place I discover a marked path. A string of black diamonds discarded at the trail abruptly uncurls and slithers away into the beds of untamed snapdragons and orchids. This is adder territory. At Thorup Strand, I discover a fishing collective that sells very good fish and chips. By past due afternoon I’m in Svinkløv campsite (tent for 2 for £47) the place my mounted tent has an excessively comfy mattress. I really like the understated, common-sense mentality of Denmark. There’s no fuss, no mess and indubitably no hyperbole.

When King Frederick VI got here right here within the early 19th century, he declared it probably the most stunning a part of his empire (which on the time incorporated Norway, Greenland, Iceland, the Faroes, a trio of Caribbean islands, the Nicobar Islands and the Bengali town of Frederiknagore, now Serampore).

Kevin Rushby cycles along beach near Thorup Strand.
Kevin Rushby cycles alongside seashore close to Thorup Strand. Photograph: Kevin Rushby/The Guardian

There is not anything showy or impressive, just a few tidy meadows, a thatched windmill and an extended seashore. There are easy drowsing huts alongside this coastal path, the place I had deliberate to camp, however now I experience previous. In town of Blokhus, having lunch on the thatched Restaurant Futten, I drop into dialog with an 82-year-old physician whose observe was once as soon as in Greenland, and his son. “I liked doing house visits,” he remembers, “I’d move via canine sled.” In summer season he would come again right here, to the circle of relatives’s summer season vacation house. I consider a weatherboarded cabin full of bits of driftwood and the skulls of sea creatures. Suddenly I believe a connection to my onward course, the huge northern seas salted with craggy volcanic outcrops and ice caps. For the primary time I sense the advantages of arriving slowly over land and sea. There is time to speak and construct wisdom and expectancies.

The physician’s son talks concerning the egalitarian nature of the Danes. “When a gaggle of ninth-century Viking warriors have been requested who their chief was once, they responded: ‘We’re all leaders’.”

He asks whether or not I just like the flat panorama. “For us Danes, the desert isn’t mountains, however sea.”

Lunch at Thorup Strand
Lunch at Thorup Strand

I lift on up the seashore, following the wavy line of spume to Løkken and what proves to be a top-notch B&B, Villa Vendel (doubles from £104) in a gorgeous outdated area with a motorcycle retailer within the former stables. From right here, in spitting rain once more, I push the motorbike over a headland and into the impressive stays of 2d international battle German gun emplacements. The sea is tugging them down, slowly drowning them. Before too lengthy, their darkish corridors will likely be fish nurseries.

Apart from occasional deep loops inland, I’m nearly all the time inside of sound of the ocean in this adventure and every time I will, I experience at the seashore. In puts vehicles are allowed and the sand is churned up, however I will all the time in finding company going via the water’s edge. Sometimes I lift the motorbike into the dunes and lie down out of the wind, gazing birds and plant life, then opt for a swim. To get dry, I stand within the wind. No towel. I purchase open sandwiches and occasional at smartly painted clapboard cafes.


I succeed in the port of Hirtshals at the night time ahead of the weekly ferry for the Faroes departs, checking in to the Montra Hotel (doubles from £90) as regards to the jetty. The the town itself is a strapping, seaworthy more or less position, the place it’s essential to purchase a fishing rod and a knife in addition to trousers, socks, water bottles and towels. But I don’t. No area. My son Conor, who lives in Berlin, arrives via teach to accompany me, and within the morning we spark off in sunshine, strolling in opposition to the towering boat, Smyril Line’s Norröna, that has gave the impression. We will rent motorcycles once we arrive in Tórshavn, however I do know little greater than that: biking is claimed to be new to the Faroes. On the quayside I chat to a Faroese crewman: “I do personal a motorcycle,” he tells me. “But I’ve by no means ridden it. People don’t experience motorcycles within the Faroes. It’s too chilly, too windy and now we have many lengthy, darkish tunnels.”

We board the ferry with some pleasure spiced with a bit of trepidation. After the delicate charms of Jutland, it sort of feels, the epic motorbike experience is ready to get considerably harder.

The shuttle was once equipped via Visit Denmark. Bike Havs in Løkken rents bicycles from £13.50 an afternoon (ebikes from £22), with pick-ups and drop-offs round Jutland. DFDS ferries sails from Newcastle to Amsterdam day-to-day. A Eurail “4 days in a month” go prices about £200. Smyril Line sails weekly in autumn from Hirtshals to Tórshavn within the Faroes, passenger with bicycle from £80 a technique

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